Thursday, August 28, 2008

In the final analysis

In a hotel by an airport. It could be any airport or any hotel. Sure the leather paneled walls are kind of neat, the four hundred pillow perhaps a little excessive, the Groove Armada sound track nice, but very 1999. So what's my point? I'm kind of trapped in a multi-year ground hog day. Sure the kids grow up each year, I grow wider and a little smoother on my head but its seems the same old stuff. Again. And again. And again.

I guess that's why driving across America seems to be such a great idea. Hey we are so hip and cool that we can give up our 4,400 sq/ft house that we put our heart and sole into and exchanged it for a 1,700 sq/ft that costs twice as much and built 50+ years ago. Some of this, I feel, can be explained by the simple equation

income needed (aka greed) = 2 x current income x number of cools cars

Given that we have no cools cars, then I need to earn at least twice as much as I currently do. This presents a problem that can only be solved with a great startup, an enormous amount of equity and a very nice little IPO (fingers crossed). 

So what's my point? Well a two week journey replaced a six month Airstream voyage to "find ourselves". What this really meant was that after years of parenthood we figured that there must be something else to life. I'm sure all the great parents never let this thought pass through their minds. But I am weak and perhaps at little narcissistic. Is this it? Really, really ask yourself this because if you do and you are honest, the answer is not as always palatable as you think or would like to think.

Thank god the mundaneness of Suburbia will be replaced by something else. Cutting the grass every Sunday just seemed like the same old tread mill that I saw a million times growing up. Mediocrity was one thing I never strived for, but it seemed that this was all the somebody in Suburbia could aspire to. Perhaps this is why some many of us parents live our lives through our children. Basically we are screwed, so our only hope is to image a different life. Typically this is played through the lives of our children. You will see it every Sunday at Little League practice.

What did I learn on this trip? I don't handle family stress that well. I get crabby and very annoyed about everything. Sure, buying and selling a house whilst on the road was not a great  plan to start with. Final nail? Moving family in a 6' by 8' space for 14 days. Guess I was not designed to spend that much time in that small a space with family. I have no idea how people with five, six or more siblings ever got past childhood. One time in Newfoundland, some bloke who was running a fish processing plant told me that on his wedding night, it was the first time he had ever spent a night with just one person in bed. Now it was not because 

a) he was from Newfoundland
or b) he was extremely kinky 

In fact a function of being one of twelve siblings and sharing a room with between 4 and 8 siblings on any given night. It freaked him out. When I grew up I had my own bedroom and it was great. Sharing a single space of the car and hotel room with my family, who incidentally I love to bits, is not was I was acclimated to in my childhood. I blame my parents, as I often do in these circumstances... sheez, they should have got all their children to share the same room... what were they thinking?

We did see some amazing things, those that stick will be the colors of the Painted Desert and the Adobe architecture of 900 year old settlements on top of sandstone mesas. America is just an amazing vista for the eye and it some ways lost upon the people who live here. Growing up in a small island in the middle of a grey Atlantic ocean, where the most colorful thing I saw as a kid was a can of Coke, the pure colors of the sun, sky and land of America always surprises me. Even after living here 10 years. Its like I grew up in Black & White and then came here and all I can now see is glorious Technicolor. I don't think the people here really get what an amazing thing they have. Perhaps the "old country" has the history, but we lack the Cinema-scope vistas of America.

My eyes were opened to the America I had not seen before on this trip. Yes, I have seen the inner city desolation of the poor, the countless and faceless homeless living in a box under the bridge. But on this trip it was the rural poor I saw. They were all essentially Black and had lived like this for generations. They worked for "Big Ag" and essentially were and are kept in their place. They have enough to survive, but nothing to make their lives any better. Rural Mississippi seemed to have only changed from the marches in the 60's by the cars people now drove. Whilst voting is a right that all should have, I somehow felt that 50 years of politics had left these people behind. There was no influence to capture or vote worthy to garner by making their lives better. The Lower 9th Ward reflected in some way the same sentiment. Why go out of your way to garner a vote that you will either never capture or will always be in your pocket. A crime? For sure, but no heads will ever roll.

A million words have already been written about the Lower 9th Ward in New Orleans. I think after three years that all political parties can claim their own victory or ammunition but at the end of the day its another group of under represented people that have been put to one side by those that are there to represent them. I'm glad that I'm in a position that I can change my circumstances, but appreciate the fact after spending times in other ravished places that I can always get out. I'm not sorry about that, I'm really not. I always saw my role as documenting what I saw and getting the hell out, preferably in one piece. I wish this was different, that I had time to bond with the people and their suffering. But its not like that always when the rubber meets the road. You have a short amount of time to assimilate and interpret. Go try for yourself and see if you feel any different or more importantly behave differently.

As I have written, the food changed as the landscape. The soft rolling hills of Mississippi, Tennessee and Oklahoma had a palate of strong comfort food. The chicken was fried and crispy, the collard greens bitter, the mashed potatoes rich and creamy but most importantly the belly full. The desert states, New Mexico and Arizona led to a fire in the food that matched the heat of the daylight sun. The richness of the deep reds and bright greens of the chillies in the food matched the surrounding landscape. The burn in the mouth matched the burn on the unprotected skin in the daylight heat. And it was good.

In the final reality, I, by my own standard have failed as the father I wanted to be. I'm crabby, distracted and otherwise a cantankerous old sod. I guess, whilst I have respect for my father, it was not the father I promised myself I would be (there goes my inheritance). I thought I would always be so much more engaged, interested and a part of their lives. All those that have been or are on this journey may have that same inkling. Trying to do your best perhaps is not enough but its all you can do. Children are demanding and have that single sense of purpose that as an adult its terribly difficult to achieve because, well for all the other distractions that go on in your day to day. You know, the job, career, mowing the lawn, getting that quart of milk for bedtime etc.

The journey was an eye opener, but the joy was in the journey and not the destination. I will never regret the time and in time the rough edges will rub of to leave the shine of the bright shinny surface underneath. Just in the same way a tarnished surface of a motorcycle crankcase gleams after polishing, the highlights of the time and what we saw will out weigh the small cramped space we shared for 14 days. For the kids, well I suspect that they will remember the stories we weave but not the actual events. In 1974, when I was seven years old, we went to Hungary. It took, I think, three days to get there. I experienced my first continental quilt (i.e. a feather bed) and a continental breakfast (i.e. bread, cheese and meat) and crossed the iron curtain (i.e. a regular border crossing but with guys with lots of guns and funny hats). I have seen the pictures and slides many times and suspect that my memory has been reenforced by this and the countless stories. But if I remove that, I'm left with going on my first tram to the movies. I don't recall what the movie was, but have a sense of men in great coats with guns and the shell splats on the buildings in Budapest. Oh and these funny bread things covered in salt, Pretzels they called them and of course the fired lumps of goodness that is the "langosh".

Whilst I don't think our children will have those memories, they will be left with, I hope, the wanderlust to go build their own memories far beyond the comfort of their homes and their current lives. In effect, to go do all those things we promised ourselves we would do but never got around to.

Here's hoping.

-Alvin / August 2008

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Godfather Part V.

So we are all moved in. Why no posts? Well its complicated you see. At some level I could bore you with an absurd level of detail about what is going on. Instead I choose to summarize it in an easy to consume (but not pill shaped) dose.
  1. We are moved into our new house
  2. The house is great, but will need some work (Ikea kitchen here we come)
  3. We have a pile of boxes, I suspect, that may never get opened. They are all in the garage.
  4. And yes, the movers did a super crap job
As we speak, negotiations are in progress but I suspect that is going to be a long drawn out scene from Godfather Part V. Lots of funny accents and strong arming us into accepting bugger all. So in case we do speak to you here's another quick summary. Please answer, when we speak next wirt "yes, I known, please don't go over it again".
  1. If you recall, we departed 24 hours late from North Carolina. Too little staff to pack too much crap (sorry stuff)
  2. The delivery schedule changed a bunch of times, but we got our requested delivery span eventually
  3. On our first day we picked, no word from the driver or moving company until the afternoon. "So sorry, but we can't deliver until the next day. And please give us an extra $1600 since we under estimated your move by 20%. We can't deliver until you pay."
  4. No planning on the delivery front. Driver thinks he needs to rent a smaller truck to shuttle our goods, he can't get a freekin' huge semi-truck up our hill. Oh, he does not have a credit card to rent a truck.
  5. Me find truck. Me ring driver. Driver goes to hire truck. Driver show up 7 hours late at 6pm to deliver. Me very sad.
  6. Midnight they finish unloading
  7. Furniture trashed in the move, art work packed without wrapping. Very annoying
So we shall see. Please bear with us if we repeat this over the coming weeks/months. 

For future reference? Skip multiple vendors. Go with a big name that you deal with end-to-end. Its like the twisty-turny-passages-that-are-all-the-same from Adventure (they oh so cool 70's mainframe game). Oh god, will it ever end?

Friday, August 15, 2008

And the story continues...

So driving across America? Piece of cake compared to buying a home in post sub-prime meltdown mortgage world. The truth is that selling a house, buying a house, moving your stuff etc. is all dependent on a bunch of vendors. Whilst they like to promise the earth once they have the smell of your money, well, all bets are off right once thy have it.

The paperwork from Bank Of America was due Aug-11. We would sign then and have all the paperwork to get Ava enrolled in school. We we due to close Aug-14, and we had requested the truck to arrive Aug-15. All peachy then.

So Monday Aug-11 we find the truck is now due Aug-13, at least tow days early. Aug-11 went by without the said documents from Bank of America. Then Aug-12 rolled by, again with out a word from our friends in the banking (pronounced with a silent "w") world. 

First break, truck is delayed until Aug-15. Yippee!

Aug-13 rolls on. Paperwork will be at the title company by 9am, then 11am, then 3pm. 4pm rolls past, title company on the phone  and then by a miracle the paperwork arrives as we are speaking. We rush to the bank to get a cashier check for the deposit... I refused to hold it, its way too much money for me to loose. Race to the title company using the directions of the iPhone, run upstairs and hand the check to the assistant with 3 minutes to go before the check has to hit the bank.

Phew. Now we just had to wait until the morning for Bank Of America to fund and the transaction to record. We need to record on Thursday Aug-14 so that we have the keys and the truck has somewhere to deliver. If not, then the truck will be sitting until at least midday.

I can't exactly recall what we did that day, I know we checked out the hotel our stay was up. We either sleep on Shelly's floor that night or on the floor of our new house. And a miracle was blessed upon us, we got to sleep in an empty house. We recorded a little after 2.30pm and had the keys by 4pm.

Funny, not a word from the truck all this time. I had rang too late on Thursday to get a update from the East Coast. John's Moving (aka "We have your cash, go play on the freeway") had an emergency, but clearly ours was not enough to at least get a courtesy call back. Get a call Friday Aug-15 in the morning. Truck had a problem and has another delivery in San Francisco before us. They may get to us Saturday afternoon or many be Sunday. Oh, and they under estimated by 20% and they want the payment before they will deliver.

So I'm sitting here typing this on the floor. Comcast did provide us cable today (much drilling of holes in the floor) so we have Internet but not TV. Tomorrow. Who knows. A truck? Furniture? Beds? Its too fanciful to be a reality that I want to imagine right now.

But, after all is said and done we are sitting in our new (well crica 1959) house.

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Best of...

Best Burger
  • Blakes Lotaburger, Gallup, NM : LOTA Burger with added Green Chillies and Cheese
  • Hammett House, Claremore, OK : Medium Rare Chili Burger (its pink and juicy)
Best Pie
  • Hammett House, Claremore, OK : Banana Creme pie just beat out the double crust cherry pie
  • Ray's Dairy Maid, Barton, AK : Cherry Cheese Cake beat out the Coconut Pecan (just, one judge hates coconut)
Best Breakfast
  • Frontier Restaurant, Albuquerque, NM : Oh the sweet roll and Herveos Rancheros
Biggest eating surprise
  • Frontier Restaurant, Albuquerque, NM : We were hungry and need some quick breakfast. Our first option fell through, this was an awesome find
Best BBQ
  • Interstate BBQ, Memphis, TN : My god, this BBQ rocks and its drenched in the best sauce! Oh and its dirt cheap too. The BBQ Spaghetti is a must have!
Best Donut
  • Donut Shop, Natchez, MS : Its worth the detour, fresh and yummy and not sickly sweet
  • Cafe Du Monde, New Orleans, LA : Beignet were a killer breakfast, pity they were buried in inches of powered sugar!
  • The Donut Shop, Amarillo, TX : Cherry Glazed donut anybody? Yum.
Best Fried Chicken
  • Old Country Store, Lorton, MS : Juicy and the crispiest, meltiest in your mouth coating
Best Mexican / Tex Mex
  • El Patio, Albuquerque, NM : Chili simmered pork burrito with a spicy as hell red sauce
Best Steak
  • Big Texan, Amarillo, TX : Bit of a tourist trap, but one heck of a slab of beef
Best Cocktail
  • Mulate's, New Orleans, LA : Southern Lemonade; not only great tasting but leg crippling  strong!
Best City
  • Albuquerque, NM : Cool architecture, hip crowd and killer food
Best Scenery
  • Painted Desert, AZ : Unbelievable colors, especially in the rain
  • Sky City, NM : >900 year old adobe architecture on top of a mesa.. very cool 
Best Bed
  • Westin, New Orleans, LA : You get what you pay for, but for $84/night it was as cheap as some of the motels we did stay at on the trip. Thank you hotels.com
  • Hyatt, Burlingame, CA : Hotwire got us this for $109/night and a good wind down for the end of the trip

Monday, August 11, 2008

4140 miles & 83 hours and 43 minutes...

Tulare, CA to Belmont, CA



Done. With two cars and two kids we divide an conquer. I get Ava in the MINI and Dawn gets Oliver in the VW. Four hours of uneventful driving through the rolling taupe hills of Northern California broken by the smell of Garlic in Gilroy (it is the worlds capital for growing Garlic) and In-n-Out Burger (the California capital of burgers).

The iPod has the strange habit (sometimes) of throwing up something unexpected but very fitting. Today it was "Autobahn" by Kraftwerk. Me and Ava tripped out to some 70's electronica. Reminded me of the hours this and Jean Michel Jarre's "Oxygene" were paying as endless games of Monopoly, Business Game and other fixtures of a childhood Saturday night. Today it was a cruise up 101 with Ava doing German car instructor impersonations.

We fall off 101, drive up Harbor Blvd. and we are home, well almost.



Just the small matter of completing the transaction on the house. So we have at least another three nights in a hotel. Splashing out (a whopping $109 / night) on a Hyatt this time so we can enjoy a little luxury before we are stone cold broke paying for the house. But that as they say is another day.

Reflections? Not now, later. Smile, a great adventure but time to enjoy being here. Final stats
  • 4140 Miles
  • 83 Hours 43 minutes
  • 27.4 MPG (average)
  • 49 MPH (average)
Phew!

States
  • California
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Toast & Jam at Grandma's
  • Lunch : Cheese Burger with grilled onions at In-n-Out Burger
  • Dinner : Taco's at Shelly's

Saturday, August 9, 2008

The beginging of the end, or the road to nowhere

Flagstaff, AZ to Tulare, CA





Flagstaff. Breakfast at Mama Zips, overcast and cool. It was actually chilly this morning, a first for this trip and a welcome break from surface of the sun temperatures although it would reach 107 degrees later in the day. The plan of action was to see some of Route 66 and then head for either Barstow or Lake Havasu (to go see London Bridge). The choice was going to be based on when the truck driver with the MINI was going to arrive in Tulare, to drop the car at Grandmas.

The plans of mice and men. So we travelled on a bunch of old Route 66, got an ice cream and milk shake at the Snow Cap and yes, the bloke who runs it it totally weird, the rumors are in fact true. After that we headed on a bunch of back road, through Kingman, AZ on our way back to I-40. And then the road turned into a track. What emerged was a vista of browns, reds and yellows in the rocks and the brilliant of greens new growth cactus. Eventually we arrived in Oakman, where not only did Clark Gable spend his wedding night but the whole town is run by donkeys wondering the streets. No, George W was not in town, he was in Beijing for the Olympics. The town itself is an original gold rush town, still preserved with this covered saloon and by the looks of it a few prospectors still remain spurs still intact.

The people described in Steinbecks "Grapes Of Wrath" must have been really pissed at the dust bowl of the mid-west to even attempt this trip in the 1930's. It was pretty crazy in 2008 on Route 66, and despite being amazing to look at it was hard core desert with few offers of redemption.



It was at this point we pointed the car to California and decides to forego both Barstow and Lake Havasu and go directly to Grandma, not passing go or collection $200 in the process. For us it was the end of Route 66 and it some ways the romance of this journey. What was going to be a 300 miles / 5 hour drive turned into a 545 miles / 10.35 hour drive-a-thon. Kids did not complain (they had only their second dose of fast food on the trip) and a couple of DVDs and we were off to the races, again.



Palm trees. That was the first sign I was in California. The second was $4.79 / gallon gas. We were running on fumes and in the middle of the Mojave desert... what were we going to do! The Mojave was our last desert, and in a way kind of unremarkable in comparison to the painted desert and other we have seen. But it will always have a place in at least my photographic heart, its where I fell in love with color photography.

Couple of days off at Grandma's and then the final leg to the Bay Area. All we have to do is get the furniture delivered when we actually own the house... oh, and there is that minor detail of closing on the house. Keep 'em peeled Danno.

States
  • Arizona
  • California

Food Count
  • Breakfast : Eggs, Bacon & Hash Browns and Mama Zips
  • Lunch : $6 burger at Carl's Jnr (it was only $3.99 plus tax)
  • Dinner : Cheese on Toast at Grandma's

Friday, August 8, 2008

Fatigued of Flagstaff




Perhaps I had unrealistic expectations. I ordered the sausage pizza tonight, which had a "chef's choice of sausage". I had did not realize that "Hot Dog" was in the sausage family. Image my dread as my dinner arrived. The blow was soften by several large glasses of beer.

I left North Carolina at 165 lbs and change. I suspect that this trip will weigh me in closer to 180 lbs, the worst I have been in 4+ years. Oh well.

So it finally hit me today. I'm tired. The car's computer indicated 66 hours of driving and 3,300 miles. I think its enough. I think the kids feel the same way. We went to see the Grand Canyon today, and it was grand and beautiful, and despite the road through the painted desert to get there, it was basically a big hole in the ground. Now I suspect that in time I will appreciate it more, but it seems like another box ticked.

We have the mad dash to wrap up the trip and start our new life in California. The trip has been dotted with numerous phone calls, google searches and lots of emails. The car is arriving early but we are getting to delivered to Grandma's house in central California instead of Belmont. Its early, but fortunately the driver was going this way so we can sync up with it.

The contents of our house? Well they look like they are turning up on Aug-13 but we don't take possession of our house until Aug-14 at the earliest, so a bunch of things need to get sorted out. Our agent, Frank "I have my commission so I don't care" does not seem to want to take my calls and always get somebody in the office to call back.

Oh and we have to sort out insurance, but the mortgage company can't figure out what the replacement value is, despite in their valuation putting it lower than our bidding price. But they need to know my shoe size when I was aged 12, just in case I'm trying to defraud them or something, but how much to rebuild the thing they invested in? Nope, they don't have a clue.

Alright, I'm sounding crabby. Here's a picturs instead.


States
  • Arizona
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Raisin Bran and Toast at Super 8 Motel
  • Lunch : Sandwich out of the back of the car
  • Dinner : Sausage Pizza at Beaver Street Brewery in Flagstaff, AZ

Thursday, August 7, 2008

Cars to Space 1999

Holbrook, AZ to Flagstaff, AZ


So I have some news. "Cars" the movie (and for full disclosure I was an investor in Pixar) was based on Holbrook, AZ. Here is the overwhelming evidence
  • The "Cozy Cone" is a rip off of the WigWam #6 motel
  • It has a VW repair shop that specializes in "Campers"
  • There's a big red tow truck at the WigWam #6 Motel
  • It on Route 66
Pictorial evidence below.



So what did we do? Well we saw a very big hole in the ground (aka "Meteor Crater") and slipped and slid at Rock Slide. I expected to be more impressed by the hole, but spent most of the time worrying when Oliver was going to throw himself over the armco. I guess for something a 150ft across it did a bunch of damage but nothing like the kids going through a box of toys.

Rock Slide? Very cool (as in temperature) on the slippiest rock I have even known. If was not just me it was everybody. It was like the Park Service had taken a bar of soap to the smooth sandstone just for kicks. 


And something has been on my mind. You know that gas prices are almost at 1998 United Kingdom prices... well al the trains running alongside I-40 going east all seemed to have the trailers (sans trucks) on their flat beds. Has America finally figured that is cheaper and more efficient to use the train?

Hey, more Route 66 stuff as well. Dawn wants to buy this dinner...






It was also the first day that the kids did not watch a single DVD in the car. Shocking I know. Flagstaff is also kind of weird. First the approach, the desert turns into a pine tree forest which is not what you expect. The town itself is small, I was expecting a mini Phoenix but instead its the Chapel Hill of AZ (i.e. small college town, small little down town etc.).

States
  • Arizona
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Corn Flakes and a toasted muffin at Days Inn, Holbrook
  • Lunch : Sandwich from the back of the car
  • Dinner : Chili Dog at Galaxy Dinner, Flagstaff
  • Pudding : Banana Creme Pie from Village Inn

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

The rain in the painted desert falls mainly on... us

Albuquerque, New Mexico to Holbrook, Arizona



Leaving Albuquerque we slowly descend from an altitude of 7000 ft into a wonderland of shapes and colors as the landscape goes all Jackson Pollock on us. We headed first through the Acoma Indian Reservation to take a look at the "Sky City", or a settlement dating from 1150 AD on top of a orange sandstone escarpment. We get back on I-40 after traversing parts of the El Malpais lava flow, a pitch black river of lava. 


After swing through Gallup for a Green Chile burger at "Blakes Lotaburger" we headed for the Window Rock on the Navajo Nation Reservation. One very cool slab of orange sandstone masquerading as a Polo mint.


From there we headed through the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forrest. And then it rained, it thundered and the river ran. So we had been hit with the rain in Albuquerque, but raining in the desert? You gotta be kidding. Please note the running river in the middle of a desert in the middle of summer. Case rested.


Despite the weather this has been some of the "sickest" scenery I have seen. Sage greens, bright reds, silvers, blacks and everything in between. And that's just the rocks! The light is bright but soft, always a deep blue of the sky cut up by many layers of clouds, cirrus, cumulonimbus and a few lenticular (my personal favorite).

Between the cool architecture and great food of Albuquerque and the amazing south west desert... well I guess I have found a future home! Oh and we we are now California time. Despite Arizona being on Mountain Time (like New Mexico) it does not observe day light savings... I guess when a country is this big you are entitled to make up the rules as you go along.

Hey, and I talked tough about Oliver yesterday, so here's him being cute... how long does that last?


Quote of the day (French tourists) "We muzt find a sizzler tonight"

States
  • New Mexico
  • Arizona
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Eggs, Bacon and a Sweet Roll at Frontier Restaurant
  • Lunch : LOTA bugger with Green Chillies at Blakes Lotaburger
  • Dinner : Steak at Brookfields

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

Texas, New Mexico where are we again?

Amarillo, Texas to Albuquerque, New Mexico




Albuquerque. What can I say after eating the most flavorful burrito made out of pork cooked with chillies and served smothed in red chile sauce. Its was lip tingling spicy but also had a smokey tang to it, kind of made you want to take up smoking all over again. Apart from that, Albuquerque is one cool place. I can see why Georgia O'Keefe fell in love with New Mexico, the Adobe architecture, the color of the rock... but for me it was the neon loveliness of Central Ave and all the old Route 66 still (just about) standing.





Started at the Cadillac Ranch, finally I got to shoot it after two failed attempts in the 90's. And finally the wide open vistas of Texas have been replaced with hilly, even mountainous landscape, dotted with the outposts of volcanoes past of New Mexico. The brick red of the rock looks leaks through the sage green brush to give a Dali'esq pallet of colors, a change from the uniform taupe of Texas. Central Time switched to Mountain Time. Route 66 continued through several towns, most of which just never adjusted to the "Wal-Mart" effect. Wonderful architecture but really the end of "ma & pa" operations. Shame really.



Humidity is really down, and so is the temperature. A record low of 84 degrees and it was lovely. In the morning we are onto Arizona, our 11th state so far and the last between us an California.

I think the children are learning negotion skills, probaby something to do with being strapped in six feet apart for 6 hours a day. I used to think that my trouble ahead was going to be with Ava, but I'm leaning towards Oliver at the moment. He can be a right little stinker but always with a glint in his eye...



States
  • Texas
  • New Mexico
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Raisin Bran and Toast at the Days Inn
  • Snack : Chocolate donut from the Donut Shop
  • Lunch : Last night steak in a roll
  • Dinner : Pork Burrito at El Patio

Monday, August 4, 2008

Getting our kicks on Route 66

Tulsa, Oklahoma to Amarillo, Texas


So we got some of our kicks on Route 66, Tulsa OK through to Amarillo TX. There was an element of seeing "American Graffiti" and "Cars" come alive in the small towns we went through, and a tinkle of the old glint of Neon of years gone past. It was very cool indeed and despite the yearly loss of old landmarks, there is a fight back of sorts going on out there. An amazing modern structure has been built near Arcadia called "Pops" that is going a very brisk trade in dinner food and has a selection of 500+ sodas, enough to appease the pickiest of Americans...



The rolling hills of Eastern Oklahoma gave way to the flat vistas of Texas. The first indication was the tumble weed rolling across the freeway, but the endless horizon dotted with the odd cow, horse or windmill meant that the stifling views we had had the last seven days were gone. Despite the 100+ degrees weather the humidity had dropped as well. Things were looking up going West (young man).

The kids? Well they have gotten into the rhythm of watching endless movies, playing the odd game and not spending too much time killing each other. A result. You can tell when Oliver is fed up and wants to get out of the car, its starts with "I want to go home...". The trouble is that he does not realized that we are homeless!

It struck me eating dinner, that this was probably the first time our kids were not the loudest in the restaurant. All through the south there were children that were seen and not heard, well apart from our two. With a busy music hall atmosphere, for once on the trip we did not have to tell our two to use their "quite" voices.

Its been a couple of long days of driving and the drive up to Albuquerque should be enjoyable and short. Now I just need to find that Route 66 mix again...

States
  • Oklahoma
  • Texas
Food Count
  • Breakfast : French Toast at Eggberts
  • Lunch : BLT with Egg Salad at Pops
  • Dinner : Hunking slab of cow at the Big Texan

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Phew... its too blinking hot

Memphis, Tennessee to Tulsa, Oklahoma


Somewhere on I-40 it hit 107 degrees. The day had not started that hot, it was only 93 degrees at Memphis Zoo earlier in the day. If you want to see animals really up close it has to be recommend, but I did think that the enclosures were more like a Bay Area house than a North Carolina McMansion. Dripping, we wrung out the kids before putting them into the car for a 7 hour drive across Arkansas and the eastern side of Oklahoma. After looking through our notes we figured that 
  1. We wanted to get to Tulsa for the end of the day
  2. We wanted Pie
The mission we took on was a 300+ mile odyssey to make it to Hammett House in time for their 8pm close. At 7.48 we make it to Claremore but get held at a light by the anaconda of all fright trains. We make it to Hammett House at 8.01pm, but graciously they not only allow us to get pie but to also sit down for a very well earned dinner.

Funny making this drive. The panorama changes slowly and you forget. Today we came across a range of hills in western Arkansas and it struck me that was the first elevation change we had seen on this journey. Still fields of cotton and crops, horses but entering Oklahoma I'm getting the Native American vibe. If nothing else, I know that I can never live here, for simply I cannot pronounce any of the place names!

Oh, and "Hardies" is now "Carl's Jnr.". We are getting closer to home.

States
  • Tennessee
  • Arkansas
  • Oklahoma
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Fruit Plate & Toast
  • Lunch : Last nights BBQ made into a Sandwich
  • Dinner : Chicken Fried Chicken with Mash & Gravy followed by Double Cherry Pie at Hammet House

Saturday, August 2, 2008

A date with "the frog"

Greenville, Mississippi to Memphis, Tennessee

My date with my childhood, green style. Who would have thought Leland, MS would have brought the creator of the Muppets into this world. Well for Jim, Leland was the birthplace of Mr. Frog and that's Ok by me.


Following the Alton Brown route, we also took in Doe's Eat Place for Hot Tamale's, which were cooking big a big pot at 11am in Greenville, MS. Straight from the pot into foil for the journey up the Great River Road. 


It struck me that the landscape had changed. After an endless tress line of the journey so far, the Mississippi delta had opened out so that finally we had a horizon. Wheat, Cotton and other crops had replaced trees and swamps. But we were also in a different America that I had ever seen. It was rural, clearly poor and very, very black. There's probably a reason that the Blues originated from this area, all the greats came from around these parts. Its also a reminder that this is America today, not the urban hip environments, but the gritty down to earth people that make this country tick.

So another side trip to Arkansas to go to Ray's Dairy Maid for lunch (another Alton Brown special for the "pie") before heading to Memphis for a nights stay at the airport (it was cheap, had a pool and a window view of the runway... Oliver was impressed). 




Finally... Oh finally. Killer Dinner #637 at Jim Neelys' Interstate Bar-B-Que. Sampler platter made up of
  • Pork Ribs
  • Beef Ribs
  • Beef Brisket
  • Beef Links
  • Chopped Pork
  • BBQ Spaghetti
  • BBQ Beans
  • Coleslaw
Yikes, it was a mountain but the mountain came to us and the eating was good.

States
  • Mississippi
  • Arkansas
  • Tennessee
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Special K and Toast
  • Lunch : Chicken Salad Sandwich and Cherry Cheesecake
  • Snack : Hot Tamale
  • Dinner : BBQ blow out followed by Pecan Coconut Pie

Friday, August 1, 2008

Donuts anybody? It has to be Nachez

New Orleans, Louisiana to Greenville, Mississippi

So the Alton Brown food marathon continues after a pit stop at Waffle House, about 50 miles out of New Orleans. So we had to sample just a small selection of
  • Apple Fritter
  • Glazed
  • Cinnamon Swirl
  • Chocolate Sprinkles
  • Pine Cone


And yes they were good. And no we did get you one. The food marathon continue onto the Old Country Store, just on Highway 61 at Lorman where we had simply the best fried chicken on the planet. Dawn walked about with a signed menu.


We hauled ourselves back into the car (it had been less than an hour since the donuts) and then drove on to Vickburg, where the longest siege during the American Civil War occurred. By all accounts, only the black residents celebrated the 4th July until the end of WWII because Vicksburg surrendered to the Union Army on the 4th. Memories last a long time around these parts.

Visit to the Coke museum was a bit of a disappointment, but we jumped in the car and did another 90 miles before we found another nights refuge in Greenville, Mississippi. 

States
  • Louisiana
  • Mississippi
Food Count
  • Breakfast : Fried Egg and Bacon Sandwich at Waffle House
  • Snack : One and a half donuts at The Donut Shop
  • Lunch : Fried Chicken, Ribs, Rice, Beans and Mac & Cheese at the Old Country Store
  • Dinner : I skipped, could not face another bite